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Wyświetlanie 1-10 z 12
Tytuł:
Note on estimating bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves
Autorzy:
Myrhaug, D.
Ong, M.C.
Tematy:
shear stress
breaking wave
surf parameter
wave height
surf zone
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/2078910.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
This note presents a method of how the bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves on slopes can be estimated. This is obtained by adopting the Sumer et al. (2013) bed shear stress formula due to spilling and plunging breaking waves on hydraulically smooth slopes combined with the Myrhaug and Fouques (2012) joint distribution of surf similarity parameter and wave height for individual random waves in deep water. The conditional mean value of the maxima of mean bed shear stress during wave runup given wave height in deep water is provided including an example for spilling and plunging breaking random waves corresponding to typical field conditions. Another example compares the present results with one case from Thornton and Guza (1983) estimating the wave energy dissipation caused by bed shear stress beneath breaking random waves
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Impact pressure distribution on a monopile structure excited by irregular breaking wave
Autorzy:
Veic, D.
Sulisz, W.
Tematy:
impact pressure distribution
monopile structure
breaking wave slamming process
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Politechnika Gdańska. Wydział Inżynierii Mechanicznej i Okrętownictwa
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/260112.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
The problem of impact pressure distribution on a monopole structure excited by irregular breaking waves is investigated. The analysis is performed by applying a numerical model that combines potential flow model with a Navier-Stokes/VOF solution. The temporal pressure distribution is analysed for two breaking wave cases characterized by the significant difference in the steepness of the wave front. The peak impact pressures are observed in the region below the overturning wave jet where the pressure increases rapidly resulting in a peak value of the slamming coefficient equal to Cs=2π. The vertical load distribution provided by the derived model is more realistic than a rectangular shape distribution applied in engineering practice. This is because the vertical load distribution strongly depends on breaking wave shape and it is difficult to uniquely approximate such a load distribution by a rectangle.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Pelinovsky, E.N.
Tematy:
fluctuation
wave transformation
filtration
beach
sandy beach
mathematical model
dispersive wave
surface wave
breaking wave
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48764.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
Transformation of waves on sandy beaches, their breaking, set-up and run-up are the main factors contributing to fluctuations in the water table and groundwater flow. In this paper, the run-up mechanisms have been studied using analytical models. In contrast to the standard models, the waves approaching the shoreline are assumed to be dispersive and the equivalence of the non-linear and linear solutions for the extreme characteristics of wave run-up, such as the height of maximum run-up and the velocity of run-up, are used. A linear system of equations for the run-up of breaking waves is developed. This system is based on the application of the mild-slope equation in the deeper area, where waves are dispersive, while the linear equations of shallow water are applied close to the shoreline, where the water depth is a linear function of distance. The dissipation factor in the shallow water equation has been formulated using its resemblance to the mild-slope equation for a non-permeable sea bottom. Application of the method is illustrated for various bottom profiles and wave characteristics, and theoretical results compared well with experimental data. These solutions of the run-up phenomena will assist future studies on wave-induced beach groundwater flow.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Motion of water and sediment due to non-breaking waves in the swash zone
Autorzy:
Kapinski, J.
Ostrowski, R.
Tematy:
water motion
sediment
non-breaking wave
flow velocity
sediment transport
spatial variability
sandy shore
swash zone
Baltic Sea
shear stress
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/48514.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
A long wave run-up theory is applied to the modelling of wave-induced flow velocities, sediment transport rates and bottom changes in a swash zone. First, the properties of the water tongue motion and the resulting lithodynamic response are analysed theoretically. Next, an attempt is made to run the model for the natural conditions encountered on the southern Baltic Sea coast. The Lagrangian swash velocities are used to determine the Eulerian phase-resolved bed shear stresses with a momentum integral method, after which the motion of sand is described by the use of a two-layer model, comprising bedload and nearbed suspended load. Seabed evolution is then found from the spatial variability of the net sediment transport rates. The results presented are limited to cases of the small-amplitude waves that seem to be responsible for accretion on beaches.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
On the relationship between wave breaking and marine aerosol concentration in deep sea areas
Autorzy:
Massel, S.
Tematy:
wave breaking
marine aerosol concentration
deep-sea areas
aerosol fluxes
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241034.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
Aerosol fluxes from the sea surface are one of the important factors determining the dynamics of the air-sea interaction. Not numerous available data showed that the intensity of aerosol fluxes strongly depends on the intensity of wave breaking. In the paper theoretical formulas to determine the probability of breaking crests and percentage of whitecaps coverage are discussed. These formulas are a starting basis for the set-by-step procedure to determine the aerosol fluxes in deep water under the steady sea state conditions.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Experimental study of the formation of steep waves and breakers
Autorzy:
Massel, S.R.
Tegowski, J.
Chomka, M.
Wichorowski, M.
Dabrowski, J.
Stansberg, C.T.
Moe, V.
Tematy:
sea surface
surface wave
open sea
surface gravity wave
wave breaking
wave formation
steep wave
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Oceanologii PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/47742.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
Breaking waves (whitecaps) are one of the most important and least understood processes associated with the evolution of the surface gravity wave field in the open sea. This process is the principal means by which energy and momentum are transferred away from a developing sea. However, an estimation of the frequency of breaking waves or the fraction of sea surface covered by whitecaps and the amount of dissipated energy induced by breaking is very difficult to carry out under real sea conditions. A controlled experiment, funded by the European Commission under the Improving Human Potential Access Infrastructures programme, was carried out in the Ocean Basin Laboratory at MARINTEK, Trondheim (Norway). Simulation of random waves of the prescribed spectra by wave makers provided a very realistic pattern of the sea surface. The number of breaking waves was estimated by photographing the sea surface and recording the noise caused by the breaking waves. The experimental data will serve for calibration of the theoretical models of the sea surface fraction related to the whitecaps.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Tytuł:
Wave transformation in a multi-bar surf zone: case study of Lubiatowo (Poland)
Autorzy:
Lan, Y. J.
Hsu, T. W.
Ostrowski, R.
Szmytkiewicz, M.
Tematy:
wave transformation
wave energy dissipation
wave breaking
multi-bar cross-shore profile
phase-averaged model
hydraulic jump model
Pokaż więcej
Wydawca:
Polska Akademia Nauk. Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego PAN
Powiązania:
https://bibliotekanauki.pl/articles/241174.pdf  Link otwiera się w nowym oknie
Opis:
The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of wave transformation in the surf zone near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly induced by breaking. The main field data comprise wave heights and cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Wave transformation is modelled theoretically by two approaches, namely the IBW PAN phase-averaged wave transformation model and the approach based on the hydraulic jump model, developed by Hsu & Lai (2009) for hydrological situations encountered under the actual conditions of two field campaigns – in 1987 and 1996. Discrepancies between the measured data and the model results are discussed. In general, the model results are in good agreement with the in-situ observations. The comparison of the field data with the computational results concerns a part of the surf zone between about 5 m water depth and the first nearshore stable bar, where the depth amounts to ca. 1.2 m.
Dostawca treści:
Biblioteka Nauki
Artykuł
Wyświetlanie 1-10 z 12

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